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question about M38 shackles - and update

Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 3:05 pm
by Texbillhs
What is correct rear shackle mounts on the inside 2 bolts or the outside 2 bolts? I have seen it both ways, but structurally I'd put them on the inside alining with and frame.

After a month or more delay because the body paint 24084 (gallon sprayed) and the rattle cans used for the bolt-on stuff didn't match and the military paint company I bought it from couldn't match and even worse a new gallon is a different formula and it doesn't match. I tried other companies @$16-18 a pop for test sample rattle cans - after a lot of $$ nothing matched. I even tried auto paint suppliers that mix using a scanner - no good, if it isn't a known auto paint the computer doesn't have it in it's database. The fix - Sherman Williams mixed a quart of their enamel and it is nearly perfect.

I stenciled and today I put most of the bolt-on do-dads on and put the top on - looks great.

I need to find a rear seat frame and HDW, I have the springs, cushions and I'll need the canvas. That is about it - I few things to work on over the winter,

Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:37 pm
by wesk
Not sure what you are referring to?

But the lift shackles go outboard. Inside the rear bumperettes. Reason is the lifting cables must clear the spar tire and gas can mount brackets. I've never seen any on the inside two bolts and all the manual illustrations show them outside two bolts.

Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:28 pm
by Texbillhs
I did find a picture Fig 132 in TM9-8012 - answers the question.

I have photos both ways. I wasn't thinking of lifting, I was thinking of tie-down and pulling. Pulling with most vehicles you want to be in line with the frame.

Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:13 pm
by wesk
Tie down loops are on the frame rails underneath. Pulling is done with the pintle which is in the middle even though braced to rails. The engineers had no problem lifting further outboard on the rear crossmember since the weight is the rear is almost half the weight in the front.