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M38 Newbie questions

Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:43 pm
by evilamerican
Hey Guys,

I recently acquired a 1951 M38 and am wanting to do a nice restoration on it. It is in pretty good shape but of course will need quite a few things. Most are obvious but I have a few questions that have popped up early and I know nothing about.

1. It has been converted to 12 volt. I assume I should convert it back. How expensive of a chore is this and how hard is it to find all the correct stuff?

2. Fording kit is missing. I have not been able to find anyone selling it. Luckily I do have the air cleaner cap and the correct muffler but will need to find or make the rest of it. Ideas?

3. I have a 1952 CJ3a windshield frame. I see it is listed as a different part. What are the differences between this one and the frame for the M38?

Thanks for any help/info you can offer me. I will be digging through old post over the next few weeks or months but these questions are really bugging me.

Dave

Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:48 pm
by RickC
where are you located?

Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:59 pm
by evilamerican
RickC wrote:where are you located?
Near the town of Del Norte in Southern Colorado.

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:01 am
by evanso1975
Fording kit is missing. I have not been able to find anyone selling it. Luckily I do have the air cleaner cap and the correct muffler but will need to find or make the rest of it. Ideas?
If you have deep pockets, George at army jeep parts has them:
https://www.armyjeepparts.net/p-2170-de ... t-m38.aspx

fording kit

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:12 am
by G740
Midwest Military also has them in stock along with tons of other spares.
www.midwestmilitary.net
John

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:51 am
by skyjeep50
Converting back to 24 V - most parts fairly are easy finds - generators and mechanical voltage regulators are the two major components. They can be rebuilt and will function for years. Solid state voltage regulators are also available. Do you have the original distributor? One part that seems to be the "weak link" is the ignition coil. Take-outs can be had but at increasing prices (NOS - ?? - pretty much used up). People have commented that recently manufactured 24 V coils have been unreliable. So, your 12 V system may be more modern and thus easier to maintain but that doesn't mean a 24 V system is going to be troublesome. Depends on what your goal is for the jeep.

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:40 am
by davem201m38
On a personal level, I like to have the 24 volt system, it's pain (see my other post) but I like having the Kudos of a functioning 24 volt system, while more and more are converted to 12 volts.
Dave.

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:56 am
by evilamerican
Do I have deep pockets? I'll say! Why I can put my hand all the way in without touching ANYTHING. Especially money. :)

I do want this Jeep to be as correct as I can make it so will be taking my time. When I locate a needed part I can afford I will try to get it. I am sure I will just have to bite the bullet and save up for some of them.

I don't know if I have the original distributor or not. The only one I have is the one in it that was being used on 12 volt. Could that be the original? How do I spot the correct one?

Thanks,

Dave

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:22 am
by skyjeep50
evilamerican - your first stop should be the "Downloads" section of this website - there you will find all the tech, repair and parts manuals for your jeep as well as how-to articles. Read it all! Next, I would buy a copy of Ryan Miller's book "M38 Reference Manual" as described on the main page of this website. It is a tremendous resource as to what was the original configuration of the M38, right down to screw sizes. Then you can peruse the "Photo Gallery" of this website for pics, illustrated pics and diagrams of M-series vehicles. Check out Wesk's gallery for a ton of good information. You can do a search of the forums for past posts on about any topic you can think of - somebody will have asked your questions because we are all in the same boat with these antique vehicles. And if you are stumped by some problem - post your problem. Willys M Jeeps is your one-stop shop for M38 info!

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 2:19 pm
by evanso1975
It has been converted to 12 volt. I assume I should convert it back.
Don't forget that the M38 has two different models of 24 volt starter motor, depending on which flywheel bell housing you have.
Check out Wes's photo album for more info.

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 4:39 pm
by oilleaker1
M37 Dodge stuff will work also, but the fan belt/pulley will have to be changed to M38. Get the books mentioned so you can see pictures of what it all looks like before you go epay shopping! Don't be scared to do business with John at Midwest Military, he sure has helped me more than once! John

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:14 pm
by evilamerican
Thanks to all for the advice/comments. They really are appreciated.

Anybody know about the windshield frame?

Thanks,

Dave

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:30 pm
by wesk
You can fabricate the missing parts to make the 3A windshield frame work. Just do a little research and compare the many photos of the original frames to your 3A frame.

Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:01 am
by oilleaker1
WS frame differences that I can think of are: vent hole has a different non hinged cover, 3 brackets for a steel rifle holder, no rear view mirror, more vent tubing affixed for return venting to air cleaner, different vacuum wiper motors. What's cool about the M38 is it will accept a Koenig Ironworks hardtop for a CJ3A which I think looks so much better than a arctic hard top. My "winter" version M38 will have one. Not correct, but my M38 isn't all original anyway. John

Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:02 am
by wesk
I have a white meyers hardtop for my M38. I sold the military arctic top. I like the look of the meyers a lot more.