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I got the manifolds off my L134 today (replacing the exhaust manifold). 2 nuts came off and 5 studs broke at the nut. They broke with very little torque. Guess that isn't bad for a 61 year old engine. Now after I soak the studs for a week or so I'll try to back them out and replace them. Question - are they RH or LH thread?

RH

I would suggest not trying to drill them. An easy way to remove the studs is by using a modified 312 stainless welding alloy. Most welding supply houses have this material. One trade name is Super Missile Weld. You weld a washer to the remaining stud and then weld a nut to the washer. The combination of the heat and strength of this alloy usually allows you to back the stud out with the nut. Occasionally, you will have to do it twice.
John

John

You wouldn't recommend a stud remover? There is 3/4" to and inch on each.

I need to know which way to turn - are they threaded CW or CCW?

Bill

I see Wes posted Right Hand

G740 wrote:I would suggest not trying to drill them. An easy way to remove the studs is by using a modified 312 stainless welding alloy. Most welding supply houses have this material. One trade name is Super Missile Weld. You weld a washer to the remaining stud and then weld a nut to the washer. The combination of the heat and strength of this alloy usually allows you to back the stud out with the nut. Occasionally, you will have to do it twice.
John

From experience I can confirm this method is painless.

I got the 3 broken bolts on in the intake to exhaust fixed - had to drill and re-tap.

The stud in the block furthest rear scares me, not much room to work up against the firewall. And it appears it will be a once chance thing or I am screwed - drilling out back there isn't an option. Even cleaning it good enough to weld a washer and nut isn't fun looking.

John - is this SS welding stick welding? I am assuming that is the case, otherwise I'd have to get a roll of wire for my MIG.