The guys at the antique car shop in Maryland

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:53 pm

were telling me that maybe the gear oil leak I experienced on the long drive to Maryland might be related to the breathers on my transfercase/transmission being clogged. To my knowledge there is only one breather, and that one is hooked into the deep water fording system. Any opinions?

Post by **wesk** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 9:35 pm

Is it plugged? If not no problem with vent. If you have your fording valves in the fording position again then you will be pressurizing the tranny & transfer and they will leak then. I believe we have been down this fording valve positioning issue before with your jeep.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:01 pm

We have, with the engine. I realize how it all applies to the whole system. Other than checking the positioning of the fording cables, is there any way of checking this? The engine fording cables were in the right places, but the fording system still had the breathers closed. L&M engines had tools that measured engine pressure, and we had to jiggle the fording levers to get them to deactivate.

Post by **wesk** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:48 pm

You need to get those two fording valves set and adjusted correctly or get rid of them before they cost you more money than you want to spend.

Make sure you understand the fording system.

With the valves closed (Fording) they force the engine's crankcase pressure through the plumbing to the tranny and transfer as well as elsewhere. This system was only meant to be operated for short distances. Leaving it in this position can cause a lot of damage and rough running. Leaving these valves mis-adjusted also causes a lot of grief. If the jeep isn't entered in judging events and isn't actually deep water forded then why on earth keep them functional. Remove them or dummy them up so they don't keep sneaking up on you and biting you in the keester!

With the valves open (normal driving) the engine crankcase is vented through the PCV system and no pressure builds up.

The transfer/tranny vent fitting (item U below) is on top of the transfer front shifter case.

Disconnect line S at Tee W and suck/blow through it.

You should not be driving around with the bell housing drain plug (item V) installed. It belongs in a small zip-lock bag in your glovebox.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:12 am

Alright Wes, I tried blowing through the transfer case vent line and it was fine. The issue is the valve. I pulled the lever off it, and the retaining nut. I then lubricated and moved it until it turned freely. But here's the problem. It rotates all the way around, so if I reattach the retaining nut and the fording lever, I don't know if the valve is in the open or closed position. Which means I don't know if I open or close it when I pull the dash fording lever. I would guess it was previously in the wrong position, as I had to "close it" to restore engine pressure.

Bretto · Post by **Bretto** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 6:38 am

I don't have the fording set up but in your case, if you don't know if the valve is open or closed, I'd just remove it and investigate. If I'd have to guess, I would say if it rotates a full 360*, then at every 90*, it's going to be either open or closed.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 7:59 am

In Dan's case I must emphasize my original position. Get rid of the valves. You don't need them.

The test for what position they are in is simple. Disconnect the tube and blow into the valve. Air flows they are open, air does not flow they are close. Make a scribe mark on the valve body where the lever aligns with the valve closed and you will always know where the valve is when it is installed.

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:24 pm

Alright, pulled both valves, made sure they were open. One was backwards. One of the vent lines was kinked too. I removed it and will replace it tomorrow. I want to keep the fording system intact if at all possible Wes. I think by checking through the whole system, making sure everything is open and free flowing, and oiling the valves so they turn freely, I should be in good shape. I took the vehicle for a spin and it wasn't leaking any oil.

Post by **wesk** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:27 pm

And where's the drain plug for the bell housing?

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:38 pm

I actually don't have one. I do want to pick one up, and I will keep it in my toolbox Wes!

Post by **wesk** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:23 pm

Good choice!

I did a little research and for a guy like you that uses this site a lot I could find no survey on file for your M38A1 and you do not have a photo album. Also seems most photos you use in your posts only last a short while then vanish.

So to get you completely on board here's your photo album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

And hears a tutorial on how to load the album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

And in your email will be a copy of our group's M38A1 survey form!

Deadguy · Post by **Deadguy** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 11:54 pm

Got your email Wes, I'll fill it out and send it over soon. Images disappear because I post them on my facebook and then link them. I didn't know how else to do it. My M38A1 is like 99%-it will be completely restored in a few weeks, and I'll have a full round of pictures to post.