Carter YS 637 mystery

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oilleaker1
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Carter YS 637 mystery

Post by oilleaker1 »

When I bought a second '51 M38 at a auction, the owner asked what I was going to do with it. I said put it back to military trim. I said too bad the waterproof carb is gone. He said "you want that?" He then left and returned with two of them. 8O What a screaming deal! Well, my 1st M38's YS failed me. I rebuild one of the two freebees that was full of leaf cutter bee dirt clods and put it on. It runs well. The original would not pull off idle, run out of fuel, and miss as you accelerated. I tried changing springs and checked for not enough vacuum, not enough fuel, and all looked fine. So, I then checked timing and advance, and for spark dropping out. All fine. I replaced the carb and boom, instant response and adjustment. Yesterday I disassembled the first carb and checked every last orifice and passageway for blockages or incorrect parts. I can find no differences between it and the one that runs fine. I even examined gasket holes at the mating surfaces. I checked all orfices by feeling that they were open with a fine orifice reamer. Blew air through all, Shined a light through all. Clean as a whistle. Anyone ever run into this problem? It's a mystery to me. :? John ( I forgot to mention that the carburator that was on the 2nd M38 was believe it or not, a 539S WW2 carter WO ! It's now on and running fine on my MB. What a day that auction was!)
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

That was a good auction day indeed. Were the two vacuum diaphragms in good shape? Was the metering rod spring installed on the correct side it's diaphragm. This is a common assembly error when folks are following the illustration in the Carb overhaul manual, TM 9-1826A dated Dec 1952,which is incorrect.

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Incorrect Illustration

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Corrected illustration
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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oilleaker1
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Post by oilleaker1 »

Wes, the diaphragms were new and springs on the correct side. I'm going to try again on M38 # 2, or put it back on M38 #1 and test it again. I can see absolutely no difference in the two. Getting back to the auction, The fellow also gave me a extra 24 volt breadbox voltage regulator , a set of used waterproof plug wires and brand new in the plastic pouch, set of waterproof spark plugs. The windshield had a set of early slatgrill or GPW brass windshield clamps too! It was indeed a good day. The sad part was the title matched the dash plate, but not the original tub vin plate. The engine is a 50's 4lr block or replacement. I did find under blue, then red paint, US ARMY in white with the hood number. I ended up buying another amazing tub with almost no rust for it. I'll make him look good and only you guys will pick up on certain facts that don't match. The deceased father that owned the Jeep used it on his dairy cattle ranch. It had a truck ratchet nylon strap for flatbeds on the front bumper used to pull calves. Both sons learned to drive on it and neither wanted it. :roll: Go figure. John
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Post by RICKG »

I swear, John, you could fall face first in "it"
and come out smellin like a rose!
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Most times when you go through the cleaning and inspecting you just did and find no anomalies means that you most likely did not see the chunk of grit exit one of the ports you blasted with air. You'll have to remount it and see if it works now.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Post by oilleaker1 »

Got a chance to road test the jeep. Ran great for about a mile and then went back to doing the missing sputtering stuff. At a idle it's fine. I think I've been fooled into thinking it was the carb. I'm going to swap out the coil next, and if that's not it, try another brand new condenser. I've already re-adjusted the brand new valves. I think it's got to be ignition now. Timing already was checked and is good. I know a bad coil will drop out as it heats up, will a condenser do that also? John
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Post by wesk »

You can test the coil with an ohmeter both cold and hot. If it is bad then the coil will fail the test hot.

Are you sure that the fuel vent system is open? The little lever inside the gas cap is in the open or Non-fording position, both fording valves are closed and the vent line from the carb bowl to the crossover tube is clear?
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Post by oilleaker1 »

Wes, both Fording valves are open, the vent line is new, I made it, I'll check the cap, but I'm pretty sure it's open. It runs great now cold, but the last time I messed with carburetor # 1, I had a hot engine. It did the same, idled nice, but would not pull off idle and would miss up through the range. The longer I run it, the worse it gets. It will crank start in about 15 or 20 seconds after sitting a week with full choke, so it is pumping fuel. I also cranked the engine with the line at the carb disconnected and at first nothing, and then spurt , spurt, spurt. Not a steady stream, but a small charge of fuel each time through. I haven't checked fuel pressure with a gauge yet. Wouldn't take too long to change to a new coil I have. When a condenser goes bad, does it act like a coil and run fine at first and then go haywire? John
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Post by wesk »

If you suspect the condenser just pop the cap and pull it's wire off the points. If the points are burned then it is a bad condenser, if it runs better it's a bad condenser, if no improvement it's not the condenser.

Don't overlook the radio noise filter. It's failure gives the same symptoms as the condenser except for burning of the points.

The quick and easy tank vent check is to driver her with the cap off the tank.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Post by oilleaker1 »

I deleted the firewall mounted noise filter, but I think the distributor I bought has the capacitor in the wire lead to the coil still. I may delete it and just put in a insulated wire in my trial and errors finding this irritating problem. The tank is vented with copper tubing to the air filter also, but the removal of the cap will be another quick test. Listening to the exhaust sure sounds like a ignition problem. Not finding any problems with the carburetor also points to the ignition. I get fooled by a problem that changes. When it always manifests itself you can find it easier. When I find it, I'll update you. :wink: John
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Post by wesk »

Mike Seymour posted some good photos of his deletion trick for the radio noise filter in the distributor:

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Image
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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