M38 Leaf Spring help

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 4:17 pm

Disclaimer : I have read all of the manual info I can find prior to posting here and am still stumped!

I need some help from you M38 guys. I am trying to replace the leaf springs and can't get them to fit.

Here's the front spring. This one is a Crown but I had a similar problem with an Omix brand. Pivot end is on the right, shackle end on the left.

The pivot end has a rubber/metal combo bushing:

That bushing easily accommodates the 7/16" pivot bolt:

The shackle end has a metal bushing:

That bushing is too small to accommodate the shackle bearing (and too big for a 7/16" bolt) so I drove it out:

Even with the bushing removed, the shackle end of the leaf spring is too small for the shackle bearing - it will not go in, not even close:

Oddly, the pivot end of the leaf spring is just the right size for the shackle bearing if the rubber/metal bushing were driven out. The bushing is still in place here but you can see the shackle bearing would fit otherwise:

So if I drive the pivot bushing out I can use that end for the shackle but then the other end wouldn't fit the pivot pin.

Do I have the wrong springs altogether? If so, where do I get M38 ones? Both the Omix and Crown springs were sold as M38 compatible but neither fit. Am I missing the obvious? Please help...

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Fri May 09, 2014 5:21 pm

I just put new ones in last night. I got mine from Kaiser Willys. I had to press the brass bushings in with a C clamp, but they went in easy. Shackles fit too. I did have to drill out the pivot hole just a little.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 5:28 pm

Bobber wrote:I just put new ones in last night. I got mine from Kaiser Willys. I had to press the brass bushings in with a C clamp, but they went in easy. Shackles fit too. I did have to drill out the pivot hole just a little.

Were those Crown or Omix springs from KaiserWillys?

Both ends of my original springs are approx .85" in diameter.

The new Crown springs are .85" on one end and .72" on the other, hence the problem. I guess I could ream the small end to make it bigger but I'm hoping there's a less Bubbafied solution.

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:09 pm

Omix, I didn't have a rubber bushing like the one in your picture. I just had the brass bushing. One hole is larger to accommodate the threaded shackle.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:12 pm

Bobber wrote:Omix, I didn't have a rubber bushing like the one in your picture. I just had the brass bushing. One hole is larger to accommodate the threaded shackle.

I appreciate the replies so far. So are your pivot bolts the 7/16" non-greaseable ones (like the one in my pic) or do you have the larger diameter ones with the grease fitting on the end?

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:27 pm

my pivot bolts appeared to be 7/16 to 1/2, "I didn't use calipers to measure" should have. They only fit when I drilled a 9/16 hole in the pivot shackle. When I ordered my springs I specified open shackles, maybe the later shackles are closed and therefor are non grease able. My shackles are grease able too. Remember: if you use open shackles have the left hand threaded shackles on the front drivers and back passenger side. The left hand threaded part goes on the spring. All right handed part of the shackle goes to the frame. read up on it for sure. I have a manual, but I still miss stuff, It hurts too.

Rick_L · Post by **Rick_L** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:28 pm

The M38 has a smaller, non greasable pivot bolt than the CJs do. My M38 front springs have more leafs than your replacement does. I had my rebuilt by Donovan Spring in Manchester. The shop manager there told me they could build new ones, but that the leafs wouldn't taper that the originals do. They re-arched and reassembled my originals for $120 for all 4.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:40 pm

Rick_L wrote:The M38 has a smaller, non greasable pivot bolt than the CJs do. My M38 front springs have more leafs than your replacement does. I had my rebuilt by Donovan Spring in Manchester. The shop manager there told me they could build new ones, but that the leafs wouldn't taper that the originals do. They re-arched and reassembled my originals for $120 for all 4.

Rick - Yes my replacements have fewer leafs than my originals. I'm not going for a restoration just an economical way to keep this old girl rolling....so this has been far from economical. For $120 I should have just driven to Manchester to have them rearched.

Bobber - So looks like you had a 7/16" bolt at one time but have drilled to accommodate the larger greaseable one. This seems to be a pretty common modification. I'm trying to avoid drilling if I can.

oilleaker1 · Post by **oilleaker1** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:48 pm

I ordered Us made rears for my '51 M38 from Walcks. They look good but are 9 leaf. As far as I know no one makes the 11 leaf rears. They also come with a brass bushing and the OD of the brass bushing and ID of the spring are too small to accept the rubber/steel correct bushing for the 7/16 bolt. I plan on drilling the shackle and using greaseable 9/16 type bolts. My CJ3A uses Walcks springs and they sit up well , and ride a bit hard, so they are up to the task I think. I saw a set on epay in Florida that looked good, but shipping!

I don't think so. Not sure what to tell you to do on your fronts. John

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:49 pm

Ya, I had 11 leafs in the back and 10 in the front. the new ones have 9 and 8. I didn't have a grease able pivot. I thought about having them re arched, but I also read where they don't last very long. depends on how you drive? I don't know. I did replace some springs in another vehicle and it made all the difference in the world. the new springs were also about 1.5 to 2.0 inches arched more. so the ride should be great. I didn't mind drilling a few holes, this isn't an exact restor. but I'll try to keep it the best I can.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:56 pm

What do you guys think about reaming the inside of the spring end where the shackle bearing goes? I need to gain about an 1/8" inside diameter on that spring end.

If I can do that it would allow me to leave the rubber bushing in the other end of the spring and keep the 7/16" bolt there.

Rick_L · Post by **Rick_L** » Fri May 09, 2014 7:56 pm

I bet there are spring shops closer to you in Maine.

I've been pleased with the way my springs have held up. The shop manager at Donovan did warn me that there will be a lean to the drivers side, even with new slings.

Full disclosure - my front spring packs are replacements from the late 60's that my father found when a parts dealer closed that had been in Lebanon, NH since the 30's. Some thoughtful employee from way back when had hung tags on each one that said '10 leaf, M38 Jeep only'.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 8:01 pm

I did find a couple shops online that are pretty close to me. However, I've already bought and returned an Omix set that didn't fit and now I have a full set of Crown. I can't return two of them as they have been kicked around the garage floor all evening. Even if I could, I'm getting killed on freight charges. I'd like to make these Crowns work. Either I drill holes and install greaseeable pivot bolts or I ream the spring holes.

Post by **wesk** » Fri May 09, 2014 8:10 pm

Have you measure your Crowns yet? Center bolt to each spring eye and spring eye to spring eye. You may not be able to turn the spring around. However if the center bolt to spring measures the same distance both ways and each of the leaves also measure the same length each way from the center bolt then you may be able to turn them around and have your problem solved.

Ryan_M · Post by **Ryan_M** » Fri May 09, 2014 8:15 pm

The measurements are the same either way but I still need to drill or ream something to make it fit.