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Will a 24 volt distributer off of a 134L work on a 24 volt 134F?

Yes. If it's the very early distributor the flyweights for the centrifugal advance are different yielding a slightly different amount of centrifugal advance.

How do you tell the difference? This F engine had a T84 transmission on it and a M38 starter with a foot switch so it's easy to assume that it was a cobbling of bits and pieces. This A1 in the beginning had an L with a T90 and was 24 volt, the F was 12 Volt. That's why I'm concerned about the distributer. I'm about ready to fire this thing off and the only problem I can think of is going to be the ignition. The guy I got the F from stated it was problematic /starting,
12 volts trying to start a 24 volt starter maybe?
Thanks Wesk

By part number on the ID tag on the distributor housing.

IAU 4004 UT used on very early M38 used advance curve C2-P22

IAU 4006 UT used on most M38's used advance curve C2-P22

IAU 4006 AUT used on M38A1/M170 used advance curve 1046

Curve C2-P22
0 deg @ 275 RPM
1 " @ 380 "
5 " @ 825 "
10 " @ 1350 "
11 " @ 1574 "

Curve 1046
0 deg @ 300 RPM
1 " @ 425 "
5 " @ 1050 "
10 " @ 1575 "
11 " @ 1700 "

The distributor you want is an IAU 4006 AUT. You can use the earlier M38 distributors by swapping your advance weights and springs or just live with the very slight change in advance characteristics. However on the earliest distributor IAU 4004 UT you will need to fabricate or buy the correct harness that replaces wire #12 on the two later distributors.

We'll leave it up to my thing to go weird
What I've got is
AU 4006 AUT
It's clear that there was a clear stamp where the AU was impressed, no I in front of it.
This might help, the number right above it is AXS 1850.
What is the purpose of the first three letters, IAT, IAU, AU.
It's also an Auto-lite maker.
Thanks Wes

Prestolite bought Auto-Lite out in the 60's of their distributor, generator and starter line. So they are one in the same for purposes here and they use the same numbering system. I=ignitor, A= automotive & U = underwater. So you already have the correct 24 volt waterproof distributor for a M38A1. Not uncommon for one letter to be too lightly stamped or missed. It's stil an IAU 4006 AUT.

When you post this type of question always try to tell us what part numbers you have already and better yet post a photo. This will help you get the correct answer sooner.

I'd love to post pics, but I'm using an IPad and there is something I'm not getting when I post pics. Either they are too large of a file or something went south. What's the secret. I have a load of pics of this build. I've read something about posting on a public third party server and going from there.

Wes;
Where in the world do you get this info? I've got a foot of manuals and admittedly I don't know them from cover to cover. BUT; Where in the $&% do you dig this techno stuff up from? You are a fascinating source.

I have 60 feet of manuals, Been wrenching since about 1962 and use the heck out of today's Google switch!

You also can't beat having the early 1951 M38 ORD 9, the 1955 M38 ORD 9 and the 1956 M38A1 ORD 9, the 1949 (rev thru 55) Willys Master Parts List, the mid to late 50's dated Prestolit/auto-lite application guides and service manuals. The Military 1952 issue TM 9-1825B Auto-lite electrical component overhaull manual and the 1953 military TM 9-8627 Delco Remy Electrical components overhaull manual.

Good god, I wouldn't know where to start. No wonder.
A friend of mine (Norm) down the road was in the army in the 50s for 6 years all he did was wrench on Jeeps and nothing but jeeps. He was a vital source a couple of years ago but he's kind of lost some of it.
He told me, two guys a set of wrenches, 1/2" sockets, a straight blade screwdriver and a pair of pliers, they can overhaul one in 4 hours.
I'd love to watch that. He's a good guy..