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I've seen posts on people straightening them, as well as replacing.

Recommendations as to how to straighten, and if it is a good fix.
I would have thought you would need to heat and then temper the thing.

Or just buy a new one.

Thanks,
Brian

if it's a show jeep, buy a new one. if it's a trail jeep, take it off and smack it on a rock to take the bend out..it works but, bends easier the second time you hit some thing.

Use a wee bit of common sense. If the bend is really bad then straightening will work harden the rod and weaken it considerably making it more likely it will crack at the old bend. If the bend is severe enough to change the diameter of the rod at the bend or the straightening results in surface cracks at the bend area then get rid of the rod.

Ken/Wes,
Thanks for the replies.

The bend is pretty bad. I have not decided about show jeep at this point. A lot of water to go under the bridge before then, but it has to be safe to drive.



I am concerned that bending it back to straight (plus enough to keep it there) will do as you suggest and weaken it to the point where it might just break down the road.

All of the ends are going to have to be rebuilt (if that is an option) or replaced. Take a look at the photo and give me some advice. They all look pretty much like the steering link end.

So next question. Suggestions as to where to find one? A guy has a used pair on Ebay, but I'll probably end up replacing all of the ends anyway. Not sure I'd be ahead.
Thanks,
Brian

The old "bandaid" steering damper in the photo is an obvious indicator
of serious steering system wear and neglect. The safe thing to do is
evaluate the COMPLETE system and repair/replace as needed to bring it back to spec. My 2-C.

The tie rod end may well be bent but you are going to need the adjusting sleeve on the right side as well. The tie rod ends do not look in the best shape.

The tie rod is bent just inside of the adjusting end, probably into the threads,
so I suspect replacing the tube will be necessary.

All of the rod ends look the same. Is there no repairing them? It looks like
replacement is what is needed.

If I was to buy the tie rod on Ebay, I suspect I'd have to replace the ends anyway. Might make more sense to buy the whole thing all at one time.

Thanks,
Brian

I agree with Wes, but also for other reasons than those advanced by him
A couple of months straightened my tie rod WJ Grand Cherokee after a side slam on a wheel, without any fear of having made a bad practice does.
But there are differences between the two cases: in my case the bar is solid, and in which we discussed, it is not
That solid, (or any other) bar straightening heating is not advisable, because certainly lose their mechanical properties, unless re-make a new heat treatment to all of it.
The solid bar the cold straightened with a hydraulic press, because the damage curve was extended almost from end to end of the straight portion, forming an arch.
Keep in mind some observations:
This bar we see is tubular, and the wall thickness think ... is not great, nor is it required, it is straight, and supports the efforts are axial or transmitted, except when it hit rocks.
The curve is very steep and localized time.
It's near the end, internally threaded area where it has a slot that allows you to lock the clamp once adjusted.
Well, that slot is an entry point for moisture, which makes us think that the rust is out, this is probably inside having decreased the thickness of the wall.
Straightening or bending pipes, is complicated, and if small radius curves, worse, as if done with the proper equipment (to curve) collapse, reducing its diameter in one direction, as mentioned wesk.
My opinion is: If you can do without spending money, disarm the bar and evaluates all this, try to straighten it under cold press and see the results yourself.
But preferably, change it.
What really scares are the terminals, and that would be my main concern for now. You can fall off the bar. Also realigned to avoid wasting the tires.

Muchas gracias Jam,
I agree with your suggestions. I believe all of the ends will need to be replaced.

The trick is finding a complete RH tie rod with ends.

Take care,
Brian

No trick to it, other than getting the correct sizes. If you look in the ORD 9 parts list p. 264, you will see that two different parts were used: one original and another as service replacement. The difference is in the diameters. You need matching diameters of ends and rods, as the thread size is different, 11/16" vs. 3/4". The military-oriented Jeep parts suppliers will know just what you are talking about, others maybe not so much, but if they have both sizes listed then you should be safe to get what you need. I have a spreadsheet of all the compatible part numbers for each size. PM me for a copy if you need it. (Now that I reflect on it, I realize it was pretty confusing at the time due to original vs. service versions. Otherwise I wouldn't have made the spreadsheet!)

Hello Jim,
Thanks for the details. I will need both tie rods complete. Once I removed the steering damper I realized the tie rod end had been rubbing on the backside of the damper. In addition, the right rod is bent in two places, and the left tie rod has been welded. A repair, I assume.

Sadly, it appears that of all the afterservice welds on this vehicle that one on the tie rod is the best looking.

When I am looking at diameters, what do I need to measure so I can order the right rods/ends to match the bellcrack assembly?

Thanks again,
Brian

4x4M38 wrote:Hello Jim,
When I am looking at diameters, what do I need to measure so I can order the right rods/ends to match the bellcrack assembly?

The thread size. Using calipers is recommended. Original 11/16"=0.688"; 3/4"=0.750"

Thank you Sir!

Well, after wiping and rubbing the dirt, grime and grease off I get something less than .68.......

But definitely less than .7 or .750, so sounds like the 11/16 rods are what I need.

Thanks again Jim.