Floor Pans and Bottom Hat Channel Replacement Questions

Hornsgalore · Post by **Hornsgalore** » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:26 pm

All,
Is anybody experienced in replacing floor plans along with the hat channel underneath the body? I am getting ready to replace 2 floor pans along with the hat channel and want to know if there is a jig of some sort or measurements taken so that when you weld it all up the holes line up to bolt to the frame? Any help or pictures would be appreciated.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:14 pm

The best jig available to you is your frame. Brace your tub before you cut the floors and hat channels loose so the tub retains it's original shape within reason. Then with every thing tacked in place set it all on your frame and make the adjustments needed to make it fit.

Bobber · Post by **Bobber** » Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:14 am

I used self tapping screws to temp hold the hat channels to the tub. It's tough to clamp the hat channels. There might have been some extra holes to plug when I got done, but it was the best I could come up with. I measured the difference from one side to the other to make sure they were the same. measuring is free, do it a lot. My whole floor was rusted out and gone. I only had a piece of hat channel at the hump between the seats left and used that as starting piont. The members gallery is very valuble source of info, I looked at a ton of pics. Good luck to ya.

acengraver · Post by **acengraver** » Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:54 am

I used Midwest Military's floor supports and passenger-side floorboard. I didn't brace the tub as I should have and it appeared that the new floor panel wasn't going to fit but the floor panel was very accurately cut and when I lined the panel up, it pulled my tub back straight and every hole lined up perfectly. i was lucky, but I do recommend John's parts for their accuracy and quality.