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M38A1 What is it worth
Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:28 pm
by kjar
I have a M38A1 with a serial #of 71480. It starts, runs and stops. The engine is 24 volts and the lights are 12 volts. The engine was rebuilt of few years ago and I have been starting it every few weeks. The tires are new but not military. The gas tank is patched but does not leak. The body is in fair to good shape the passenger side is rusted out pretty good but mostly still there. I'm looking to sell but do not know what it worth.
I live in Avondale Az. Thank you all for any advice you have given me and will give me.
Keith
Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:01 pm
by oreo3156
can you post a couple pics? In Canada it would go for about $2500
Posted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:20 pm
by wesk
Pictures and a better description will get you a more accurate appraisal. For example:
It starts, runs and stops.
Does it have good compressions? Does it accelerate smoothly? does it make it up mild hilis at 50 MPH in third gear? Does it smoke gray, white or black smoke? Are there valve tapping noises or rod knocks?
The engine is 24 volts and the lights are 12 volts.
This is odd. How are the 12 volt lights supplied? When you say the engine is 24 volt, does it have the stock 24V 25A generator and regulator? Does it charge correctly? Do the batteries stay charged during long periods of none use? Is the distributor the stock 24 V waterproof unit with shielded plugs?
The body is in fair to good shape the passenger side is rusted out pretty good but mostly still there.
This statement tends to contradict itself. Here is where the best sales tool is photos.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:13 am
by kjar
Sorry but I don't know how to post pics.
I do not have a compression tester. It does hesitate some when accelerating. The top speed is only 45 MPH but I do not need to down shift going up overpass hills. The inside of the muffler is a light grey but as far as smoking nothing that I have noticed. There is a tapping noise that I assume is a valve no rod knocks.
The PO ran a wire from one batter and spliced it in to the wiring harness somewhere and the lights are 12 volts. Yes it does have a 24V 25A generator. Yes it does charge correctly. I disconnect the negative lead and put a battery maintainer on it when it sits for any period of time. The distributor is 24V waterproof but it does not have the right wires. The PO used silicone to waterproof it. The plugs are just regular plugs.
I have photos that I can email to someone if they want to post them for me.
Thanks again
Keith
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:08 am
by wesk
Keith,
It is not very difficult to post pics here. They must be on a web site already and you link them to your post. I'll open an album for you here on this web site:
Here's your album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Here's the rules:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... opic&t=498
Here's the tutorial for loading your album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Here's the tutorial for posting your photos:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... pic&t=8670
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:15 am
by wesk
The M38A1 should be able to reach 60-65 MPH with relative ease. So you either have a lot of rolling resistance like dragging brakes or your engine is significantly weak. It would help you with your valuation and sale to take the jeep to a shop for a tune-up which needs to include a compression check and recording of the pressures achieved with the engine hot. A good tune-up will include hot compression checks, vacuum gauge readings at idle & cruise. Clean and gap plugs, check dwell and timing. Clean and gap and adjust points.
You can check rolling resistance yourself by raising the jeep's wheels off the ground. If not all four then both wheels on the same axle at the same time. Spin the wheel by hand. You should feel light resistance and get about one full turn or more of the wheel.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:06 pm
by kjar
does this work
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 6:47 pm
by wesk
Hello Keith,
No because your shutterfly account is private. We cannot access it through the link you provided. It wants us to sign in or join first.
It would be a lot easier if you just use the links I gave you, follow the tutorials and load your pics.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 8:49 pm
by kjar
Here is the link to the photos in my album "kjar".
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Thank you very much.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 8:56 pm
by kjar
Can you give me a ball park idea of what year this jeep is?
Also I do have a clear title for the jeep.
Thanks again
Keith
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:37 pm
by wesk
The serial plate which is not the original type serial plate makes it a FEB 54 unit. The body seems to be 1954 or newer.
Quite a few missing items. The odd brake booster, the civvy carb. Missing induction crossover tube. Odd contraption just below and forward of the carb. will detract from your value.
More detailed photos showing degree of deterioration of the sheet metal is needed to make any determination on body and chassis condition.
A1
Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 4:23 am
by hillbilly21
WHERE IS THIS LOCATED AND WHAT STATE IS THE TITLE FROM..THANKS
Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 6:54 am
by Xamon
The thing on the fender looks like a siren or horn. I also see a steering damper which could speak of major steering issues.
Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:39 am
by kjar
The plate behind the passenger seat has the same #s just very hard to read. The odd contraption in front of the carb is a pressure reg. I don't think the fuel pump is original but it runs.
The title is from Az.
The thing on the fender is a horn and yes it is a steering damper but with it on it does not shake very bad going down the road.
I am not claiming that this is all original buy any means. I bought it in the early 80s from someone that said they got it from the sheriff dept. in Oregon. I no longer want to take up garage space with it and thought I would try to sell it to someone that would like to restore it. I believe that it has good bones and would make a great project for someone.
I posted some more pics the passenger floor is the worst of the rust.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Thanks again Wesk you have a lot of great knowledge and have helped many of projects
Keith
Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 10:08 am
by wesk
My guess is that's a Solex carb with a Civilian CJ fuel pump which creates the need for the pressure regulator.
With the wavy rear floor and the front floor conditions I'd guess the value between $1800 and $2500. Again a lot depends on the hands on inspection of the jeep and driving it. If she still shakes on the rode with the steering stabilizer then there's a lot of work to do there.