willysmjeeps.com

Just thought I would start a thread on a question I posed to Wes by private message. I am looking for a intake/exhaust manifold and was offered one that came off a M38. they want $275 and I was curious about whether the piece looked alright and if the price was okay. This was Wes's response.

Just remember used is 1/2 to 3/4 of new price. Since it has been disassembled and tossed back together minus the heat riser valve I would suspect a mismatch of the castings which may have a history of machine work that differs between the exhaust part and the intake part. This will result in a mismatch of the flanges to the block with one set closer to the block than the other which can cause some serious cracking issues. To be sure one needs to assembled the intake to the exhaust with the correct gasket and proper torque. Then straight edge the row of block flanges. If machining is needed it will show. Adjust price accordingly.

I am checking to see if both of these pieces came off the same jeep and if any machine work was ever done. Even if they are okay, I think $275 is a bit high? any opinions?

I think John at. Midwest is asking 180 for an exhaust manifold with
the heat riser valve.

Is your set dead?

My old setup had a M38A1 carb on it and not sure about the exhaust, but there are also some welds in it...

Unless the set is just down the road so you can do a physical inspection
you'll not know if machine work is needed till after you have plunked down the dough + shipping.
It helps to have a previous relationship with the seller and trust him. The intake manny is in fact M38 as evidenced by the
primer pump ports but as Wes indicated the heat riser is worrisome.
Ya $275 is a lot of scratch but I don't think there's a large surplus of NOS
uncracked and ready to bolt ons out there to be had.

The seller is Wally from TONKA JEEP LIMITED in Minneapolis. Anyone familiar with the seller? He says it was off a working M38.
His quote:

Yes, these are a match set.
Another customer of ours, had to have the marked M38 fasteners, so they were sold separately.

This engine was running and was standard bore which confirms the excellent condition.

No machine work was done.

You also need to check the stud hole where the exhaust pipe bolts up to the manifold. If it is broken off or drilled out egg shape, it can be difficult to repair. I can see the stud is not there, so its either broken, or drilled out. I have never seen one where it was just screwed out. Either way, I would want a picture of the area.

On your set up---looks like you have the larger M38A1 carburetor and when going back to the original M38 manifold, you will need find an M38 carburetor.

Thanks Harold, I just requested a picture and more info of that area where the stud is missing.

I have already secured an m38 carb, just need to rebuild it!

Okay, here is a picture where that stud belongs. To me threads look sketchy near the top, what does everyone else think?

I can understand the reason for switching hardware so the bolts with original head markings went on the restored M38 but why was a different manifold chosen for his customer's M38 over the one he is selling and why is the heat riser assembly removed and just how much bushing work has been done to the heat riser shaft holes? It is obvious that manifold was not off a running jeep with no heat riser installed.

I think the intake/exhaust manifold for the L head motors is the same on CJ 3A's as a M38. They had different fittings for the vacuum stuff installed, but otherwise it's the same. You should be able to find a used good one with a functional heat riser or one that needs freeing up for around 80 bucks. Just watch ebay or ask on the 2A or 3A pages if someone has a extra. You can buy a heat riser kit also. So if you find one that needs a kit, subtract that off the value. If you want a cold weather type with the gas injection tubes on the intake, all you do is drill and tap the flats on the intake. Some intakes had casting numbers like GPW Fords. Depends how perfect you want the M38 to be. Shipping is another problem, they are heavy. John PS---those threads just need to be chased with a tap. Look pretty good to me.

I think the intake/exhaust manifold for the L head motors is the same on CJ 3A's as a M38

So a CJ 3A intake/exhaust manifold will work on an M38? Are there any disadvantages to doing this?

All the flat head manifolds will work if you are in need of one. If you want to go original, you will be looking for the correct M38 intake side of the manifold. It will have the two end pipe plugs as well as the port for the vacuum wipers/distributor vent on top of the intake. The picture of the manifold the seller has shows what you will be looking for.

With the exhaust manifold, you need the heat riser working or repairable, the stud usable or repairable and of course, not broken or cracked anywhere.

If the exhaust part of your manifold is working fine, you could buy the correct M38 intake manifold (several surplus dealers have them NOS usually around $125 or so) and mate it up to your exhaust manifold. A bit of trouble as you will need to line everything up as Wes has detailed but you would end up with a lot less $ invested and a better set up

For $275 i would expect an entire rebuildable engine core with that Manifold...

No disadvantage to a CJ3A set.