flywheel removel
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:49 pm
whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob
thanks bob
Page 1 of 1
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:59 pm
also my Distributor is frose up and want budge
Re: flywheel removel
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:30 pm
MORE THAN LIKELY STUCK ON THE DOWEL PINS..TAKE A COUPLE PRY BARS ON THE 9 & 3 OCLOCK SPOT AND WORK IT FREE...bobatwarsaw wrote:whats the easey way to remove a flywheel from a l-head
thanks bob
DIZZY CAN TAKE A TAD-BIT MORE USE SOME PENETRATING OIL LET IT SET IF POSSIBLE MIGHT NEED A CHAIN WRENCH TO TURN IT THEN YOU GET TO BUY ANOTHER IT WILL DESTROY IT..TRY SOME HEAT IF NEED BE...
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 7:06 pm
Dang, H-Man,
That's harsh.
That's harsh.
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:02 pm
You can usually knock all the flywheel to crank bolts loose with a brass drift including the two tapered or straight dowel bolts (whichever you have) then whack the edge of the plate and she'll jump off.
The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. Remove both the plate to block bolt and the plate to distributor bolt. Saturate with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk and let set for 2 or three days then try twisting the distributor body. You will usually make very slight gains each 2 day soak and by the week's end you should be able to rotate quite a bit. If it still seems hopeless warm up the cast iron with a torch (any kind). Then hit the distributor housing with a blast from a CO2 extinguisher or dry ice and turn lift quickly.
Once you have it out try to remember the rule, dis-similar metals need a parting agent on assembly!
The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize. Remove both the plate to block bolt and the plate to distributor bolt. Saturate with PB Blaster or Mouse Milk and let set for 2 or three days then try twisting the distributor body. You will usually make very slight gains each 2 day soak and by the week's end you should be able to rotate quite a bit. If it still seems hopeless warm up the cast iron with a torch (any kind). Then hit the distributor housing with a blast from a CO2 extinguisher or dry ice and turn lift quickly.
Once you have it out try to remember the rule, dis-similar metals need a parting agent on assembly!
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:21 am
If your implying to his all caps, he's not being harsh, he ALWAYS types in caps. I think someone glued his capslock button.4x4M38 wrote:Dang, H-Man,
That's harsh.
Hillbilly is a great guy.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:28 am
thanks for all the info
bob
bob
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:46 am
No, I meant chain wrench then you get to buy another!
LOL!
LOL!
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 3:00 pm
I have had some luck with real beeswax. Heat the stuck bolt (or whatnot) up and melt the beeswax in...It's so thin that it works its way down in there...especially on threads.
Got that tip (and others) from an old timer...sometimes it works...sometimes not.
Got that tip (and others) from an old timer...sometimes it works...sometimes not.
Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:07 am
Note to self: next scheduled maint be sure to pull the dist and apply anti-seize lest you be the "idiot".wesk wrote:The distributor problem is caused by the idiot in the past that slipped an aluminum bodied distributor in a cast iron hole without any anti-seize.
