So naturally while doing some maintenance I managed to break the head off of the eccentric screw when adjusting the breaker point gap. I was able to set the correct gap and lock it down using the lock screw but I have to think over time this may creep a bit and the gap setting will change?
For the curious or caustic, I was turning the screw in the counter-clockwise direction. What is poorly shown in the photo is my holding the new point set to the left, showing where the eccentric screw head used to be and through the point bracket you can just see the hold for the lock screw.
My other question is just how "eccentric" was this screw? How offset was the head from the axis of the screw threads? I ask because I'm thinking of pulling the distributor, drilling out what is left of the old screw, re-tapping the hold and creating another screw.
Does Pertronix make a 24V unit so I can retain the waterproof housing and stock appearance? I have seen the ones that require converting to a 12V distributor and then a Pertronix unit can be installed but I was hoping to keep the stock look.
I agree though, solid state saves a lot of trouble down the road.
I may have an extra point plate out of a waterproof dist, let me check. If so, you are welcome to it.
EDIT: Just went through my junk pile, I have about five or six M38 distributors, but no guts! There must be a box somewhere with all the internals, I'll keep looking and let you know.
It may just be semantics but I always have trouble hearing Pertronics ignition referred to as electronic ignition. It is simply a pointless ignition system. It has been around for years and the only thing it does for you is relieves you of the need to clean and adjust mechanical points. It does not give you an increase in power. True electronic ignition systems monitor the engine's operating parameters and determines the changes necessary to fuel distribution or timing to effect them with good results
With that said, yes you can install the kit in the military distributor. Just remember to either carry a spare hall affect (switching) unit or the old points and condenser with you on road trips or extended off road jaunts as a backup.
Thanks for looking through your old stuff but I may have found a place to buy just the breaker plate with the screws already in it.
Regarding the Pertronix unit, I just looked at their online 2015 and didn't see an application listed for an otherwise stock M38A1. Does anyone have a part number for that unit that installs in this application?
Check Summit Racing or Amazon. I installed a 24v unit in my M37 about 6yrs ago and has been trouble free. It also eliminates the sometimes troublesome condenser.I bought a 24v unit for my M38 just haven't installed it yet.
Then go to page 11 of the catalog. Ignore the typo's!
Military Vehicles
All 4 M39, M151 and M422 Autolite IAU Series 66, 67, 79 MV-141A
All 6 M37, M38, M715 Autolite IAU Series 66, 67, 79 MV-161A
Check the listed notes, 66, 67 & 79:
66 24-volt system
67 Mil-Spec Waterproof Ignition
79 Not for use with solid core spark plug wires
You will find it listed again on page 18 and here they manage to avoid typo's:
IAU-4006AUT 4 CCW 66, 67, 79 MV-141A
And finally download their PDF installation Instructions. You will need to contact Pertronics support to determine how to use this instruction sheet with a 24 volt jeep. There published data seems to contradict itself often on 12 vs 24 volt use and specifications. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instructi ... 41AN12.pdf
Hi all, brand new to the forum and to military jeeps. Just ordered a MV-141a for my '53 M38a1 and was talking to tech support this morning to find out if I need a ballast or anything else for installation on the military Autolite. At first the tech told me I needed a 3 Ohm ballast between the ignition and coil and that I also needed a coil with a built in 3 Ohm resistor. Then after a brief pause he said he wasnt sure because it was a 24V system. Does anyone know if I do indeed need the ballast and a coil with a 3 Ohm resistor for a 24 V system? If so getting the ballast is no problem but is there a built in resistor on the OEM coil? I spent about four hours today searching different forums on exactly how the Pertronix pointless system needs to be installed but have come up empty handed. If anyone who has installed one could shed some light on this I would appreciate it!
Talked to a girl in sales first and she transferred me to their technical support. The young man on the other end was nice enough but wasn't too sure about the 24volt system since all the references he had were for the 12 and 6 Volt versions which called for the ballast and built in 3 Ohm in the coil. He left me even more confused than I already am with 24V systems so I just want to make sure I've got it straight.
I've installed their system on customers cars years ago but I have never installed their kit on a 24 volt MV. I really don't see much need for it. Yes, it makes life a bit less busy by eliminating the points but then points give me a reason to nose around each 1500 to 2500 miles and look at the overall condition of things while doing what has always been to me a very simple task of cleaning and adjusting contacts. I started driving in 1959 and all my vehicles for many years had point type ignitions.
Generally a fully qualified technical rep should be able to comment on his full product line without limitations. I don't think you have penetrated deep enough into the bowels of the Pertronics engineering staff.
Thanks Wes, I'll call them again in the morning and poke around a little more. Main reason I wanted to change over from points to solid state is for peace of mind when my wife takes her out for a drive when I'm deployed. Never failed that when I got back after a year away she would have my old CJ-5 sounding like a poppin' Johnny. Bless her though,at least I never had to worry about it not being started while I was gone.
