M38A1 Frame troubles - need advice
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:55 am
My son and I are at the point where we have the frame fully stripped and were looking at potentially straightening the 'thing out. It seems to have had damage behind the drivers side wheel where there is a slight buckle in the frame. A BFH can knock it back down but there is still some twist if I measure diagonally from one shock mount to the other.
A local frame shop is telling me once they get a twist there normally not fixable. Do we abandon this frame and look for a good used frame or are there some DIY stories or examples that bucked the pro's advice? The diag measurement difference is about 3/4" and if I use a come-along to force the dimensions equal then the frame sits level and looks about right. Problem is as soon as I release the cable pressure it springs back to the twisted shape. The drivers side shackle mount near the master cylinder is also about 3/4" lower than the other side. The patch of concrete were measuring from is reasonable flat as I ran a long straight edge across it prior to any of these measurements.
I've tried use the come-along to go beyond the 3/4" twist to hopefully allow the frame to twist back but no luck. I'm afraid were going to bend it so badly we won't have any other alternative but get a different frame. Suggestions welcome.
BTW - 1955 M38A1. We have the drive-line all ready to go back in but were hoping to sandblast this and add things back on. Obviously that will likely not happen if we have a basket case for a frame.
A local frame shop is telling me once they get a twist there normally not fixable. Do we abandon this frame and look for a good used frame or are there some DIY stories or examples that bucked the pro's advice? The diag measurement difference is about 3/4" and if I use a come-along to force the dimensions equal then the frame sits level and looks about right. Problem is as soon as I release the cable pressure it springs back to the twisted shape. The drivers side shackle mount near the master cylinder is also about 3/4" lower than the other side. The patch of concrete were measuring from is reasonable flat as I ran a long straight edge across it prior to any of these measurements.
I've tried use the come-along to go beyond the 3/4" twist to hopefully allow the frame to twist back but no luck. I'm afraid were going to bend it so badly we won't have any other alternative but get a different frame. Suggestions welcome.
BTW - 1955 M38A1. We have the drive-line all ready to go back in but were hoping to sandblast this and add things back on. Obviously that will likely not happen if we have a basket case for a frame.